“We have a saying: If you go to Atlanta,
the first question people ask you is, “What’s your business?” In Macon they
ask, “Where do you go to church?” In Augusta they ask your grandmother’s maiden
name. But in Savannah the first question peoples ask you is “What would you like
to drink?”
----John Berendt, Midnight In The
Garden of Good and Evil
Savannah is romance, from the way the Spanish moss cast shadows along
the pavement to the couples holding hands as they slowly drift through one of
the public squares or along the river front; everyone takes the time to stop
and smell the fragrant bouquet of flowers lining the sidewalks. Savannah is a
true icon of exquisite southern living and I can’t imagine it not bringing out
the dreamers heart in anyone that strolls her charming paths.
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Fountain in Forsyth Park |
Starting with a quote from “Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil,”
just seemed necessary to set the stage for this captivating city, and although
I call it by name, the natives just refer to it as “The Book.” The residents of
Savannah are eccentric, colorful, artistic and know how to show one a good
time, so much so that the city doesn't even have open container laws; they want
you to feel so welcome, they allow you to walk down her fabled streets with a mint
julep in hand. This adds to the magic and puts a whole new spin on “Slow-Vannah,”
you have no cares and getting lost is even more freeing when one feels a bit
tipsy.
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River Front |
There is a tranquility about Savannah, and that could have a lot to do
with the remaining 22 of the original 24 squares that dot the city landscape.
They create these wonderful gathering places of beauty and history, and forces
one to just give in to the laid back atmosphere manifested here. When James Oglethorpe founded the city, he was
on to something; build a public square and build out from it, creating a city
built on a grid system and utopic space for those that live there. For my Utah
people, Savannah would be like coming home; Brigham Young most likely based his
“Mormon Grid” off the design of Oglethorpe that precedes Salt Lake by over one
hundred years.
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Tom wishing I would hurry as I slowly walked Jones Street (deemed the prettiest street in America) |
Savannah is known for being one of the most beautiful cities in the
world, and I must attest to the truth in that statement. Never in all my life
have I visited a city that has taken my breath away quite the way that Savannah
does, well I digress, Venice is superb for the jaw drop. There is a reason film
after film is made here; artists and writers flock to the place as a haven for
their originality and for inspiration, the place bleeds serenity and beauty. I found
myself making excuses to take the thirty or so minute drive that direction on a
regular basis, just to get lost on her streets or plop down on a bench in
Forsyth Park and just watch the people in their own whimsical worlds while the
city transported us all to another time and place.
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The Book Lady Bookstore, loved this place |
The outskirts of Savannah are home to Wormsloe Plantation and
Bonaventure Cemetery, both pet friendly. These places both boast this alluring
yet eerie feel to them. Starting with Wormsloe Plantation, once you drive
through the gates you are greeted by a mile long drive down and old dirt road,
lined by over 400 live oak trees, it’s almost like you've been carried away to
a more genteel period in time. The entire scene is so picturesque, you can
understand why it has been so photographed and used in so many films. Granted
the entire drive the only words popping into my head were, “run Forrest, run!”
The rest of the place, not too much to see, the home is privately owned and tours
are not given. We did however add to that creepy vibe as we experienced an M.
Night Shyamalan moment when we watched the “villagers” dancing and singing in
circles; hopefully warding off evil spirits. I know, my smart ass remarks have
now ruined the place, but seriously witnessing the live oak canopy is off the
charts, and a must visit if in the area.
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Wormsloe Plantation |
Then there is Bonaventure Cemetery which just exemplifies the words
hauntingly beautiful. It is a place that transcends time and has so many
stories to tell. I can see why it was a muse and filming location for “The
Book,” and although the famous Bird Girl has been moved to a museum, this place
still houses many uniquely Gothic memorials. This place is magical, it’s almost
like you can feel the energy of those that have been laid to rest there; I can
only imagine a full moon on a foggy night and the spirits roaming the little
dirt paths. But not in a creepy way, I visualize it as mysteriously
romantic, if a cemetery can be such, or maybe I am just drunk on Southern
Charm.
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Bonaventure Cemetery |
Keep driving past Wormsloe and Bonaventure and you will run out of
mainland and end up on Tybee Island. Now
to understand the world and the people here, just take the unique and funky personalities
of those from Savannah and kick it up a notch with a bohemian beach vibe. Those
that live there have the laid back, easy going lifestyle down to a science and
I am pretty sure time literally slows down here. Not only is the place beach
chic, it boasts a lighthouse and pristine white sand beaches. We spent
Christmas Eve here, sand between our toes and sitting back in one of the many
bench swings that line the seemingly untouched beaches.
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Tybee Island Lighthouse |
On our official goodbye of Hilton Head, we decided to take the long way
around on our journey back to Saint Augustine, yes, we went back. We diverted
off of I-95 and stopped to explore the Golden Isles, seeing just a little more
of what it is the Georgia has to offer. Our first stop was Brunswick, a small
port town, on the Georgia coast; we checked out Old Town: the square, The Ritz
Theater and the historic appeal of the town. Like Savannah, it adheres to a
grid system built around squares, making it easy to navigate and adding a
quaintness to the city. The town felt small, but in a cozy way and we pretty
much had the boutique lined streets to ourselves, all making it a perfect scenario
to grab a cupcake and eat while we walked.
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The Ritz Theater in Brunswick |
In St. Simon we found all the people that were missing in Brunswick,
the place was packed with those lunching and browsing the fun beach shops, it
was almost reminiscent of our time in
Cape May. We traveled past the city
center and right to the St. Simon lighthouse to explore its history and stroll
the streets, taking time to enjoy the unique blend of antebellum homes colliding
with beach cottages; quite appealing I must say. The island was unique,
eclectic and still held on to that old world beach glamour; something I was
hoping Hilton Head Island would have been.
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St. Simon Lighthouse |
Then finally on to my favorite of our three stops, Jekyll Island.
Jekyll Island has this exclusivity about it, it was originally purchased by a group
of wealthy families as a retreat and represented one-sixth of the world’s
wealth, the one percenters of the one percenters, and then purchased by the
state of Georgia when “The Club” closed in 1947. Interesting tidbit, the first
intercontinental phone call was made from Jekyll Island in 1915, well a
four-way call also including DC, New York and San Francisco. But the best spot on Jekyll Island and one of
the coolest nature made sights I've ever seen, Driftwood Beach! I didn't want
to leave, I was enamored with the place! This stunning phenomena has happened
over time, as the island recedes and the trees are left fighting to stand,
eventually falling and creating a tree graveyard of sorts. Driftwood Beach is
about as picturesque as one can imagine, almost bewitching and I am dying to
back there at sunrise. If Tom wasn't so determined to get the three of us to
St. Augustine to our new abode and unload, we might have stayed, but now, I have
a new spot to add to our list.
Jekyll Island:
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Horton House Ruins |
Tybee Island:
Savannah:
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Lafayette Square |
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Wormsloe Plantation |
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Our M. Night Shyamalan Experience |
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Bonaventure Cemetery |
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Bonaventure Cemetery |