Low Country Living

To say South Carolina wowed me would be an understatement, I was not prepared to fall head over heels in love with this place, but we did. We've spent time in Charleston before and adored it, but Beaufort and the artsy haven of Bluffton, just made my heart skip a beat and I didn't want to leave. I just wanted to linger and meander endlessly down the live oak lined streets, to soak in that southern hospitality and gaze upon its antebellum homes. South Carolina just has this delight about it, an old world feel that collides with nature, creating this environment that wins every ounce of your being over. My heart was taken with this place the exquisite moment that I watched a herd of deer happily bounce through the salt marsh while woodpeckers pecked at the nearby tree. It was all too Snow White like and if I could save time in a bottle, this would be the place and the moment to have done so.

Bikes and books on King Street

Like I said before, we have been to Charleston before, but just couldn't resist the temptation to zip up there again for a weekend. We had such an extraordinary visit the last time we were there and seeing it all decked for the holidays was just an opportunity we couldn't refuse. Southern charm collides with southern Christmas flair, and bam, you have a recipe for perfection!

City Market decked for the holidays

Charleston is this mecca of well-preserved southern charm; from the church steeples that accentuate the skyline to the horse drawn carriages riding past century old mansions, are unforgettable. Getting a couple of days to explore and get lost in the neighborhoods is all it took to remember why it is that we are so drawn to this place. We started with immersing ourselves with locals, visiting the holiday farmers market to shop, to peruse and pick up some holiday gifts for our loved ones. We took our time to visit with the shop owners, see the real Charleston, and give one older gentleman the opportunity to see everything. That’s right, Ethel was in her stroller, being pushed by yours truly and it just made one guys day, in his words “he has now seen it all!”

Ethel and I strolling the Battery

Once we left the farmers market we let ourselves become immersed in Charleston, we walked captivated by the homes and the lush magnolia filled gardens, just engrossed in the ambiance of what is probably one of the South’s greatest cities. Eventually we day-dreamily found our way to the battery, stopped for a bit on a park bench and let the critter out for her own strut through the park. For us, having no agenda and no map, but allowing ourselves to wander is sometimes the best travel plan one can make; we tend to experience so much more of life this way.

Tom taking in the grounds at Magnolia Plantation

Charleston is also home to some astounding plantations. Last time we were here we had the opportunity to visit Middleton Plantation, this time we opted to go just a little further down the road and check out Magnolia Plantation and a big bonus, it was dog friendly. The gardens were simply amazing, especially considering that they are the oldest public gardens in America. And winner, winner, they have a hedge maze, talk about taking an opportunity to get lost, how could we not partake! Downfall, the azaleas don’t boom until spring, but hey, I can always use this as an excuse to go back. If you’re traveling with kids, they have a train and a petting zoo on property as well; great experience for everyone all around.

Magnolia Plantation

Wrapping up our time in Charleston, was spent in full holiday spirit, taking time to enjoy the holiday lights and we even drove out to “Nights of Lights” to add a little extra enthusiasm to the Christmas season. Downfall the line was long, an hour wait, but completely worth it; next time we will know to get there right as they open and to dress a little warmer so that we want to park and get out and explore the Christmas village. Overall though, it was a great trip to Charleston and a wonderful reminder of how much we enjoyed this city, and I already can’t wait to go back.

Grounds at Magnolia Plantation

Charleston isn't the only city making up the South Carolina Low Country. Ten minutes from our place was the eclectic town of Bluffton. The historic district is a quaint and charming area, lined with great little art boutiques, one of a kind shops and historic churches. I became quite the regular to the Thursday farmers market, the main street is shut down and vendors set up shop, and one can just drift from one booth to the next under the moss shaded streets. Bluffton just exudes this artsy charisma, which is completely welcoming, nothing bourgeois about it, and the city does a great job at luring residents and tourists alike to visit Historic Bluffton by the droves. One of our favorite events we partook of while there was the Art Walk, spending an evening admiring the creativity of the residents and giggling as many of the locals just zip around with their critters via golf cart. Such a great energy and feel to a little city and one that shouldn't be overlooked.

Art Walk in Historic Bluffton

Then there is Beaufort, probably one of the wealthiest towns of its size in the country and it is oozes sophisticated charm. We took a day to just linger, gaze upon its antebellum homes and soak in a little sunshine along the waterfront. Beaufort is true southern hospitality at its finest, one of my favorite memories was this older home owner, I should clarify here, mansion owner of one of the most amazing properties I have ever seen, just walking out of his home and across the grounds to the Intracoastal to shoot the breeze with a kayaking crew and to wish them a wonderful day. Or another gentlemen walking out of his esteemed home as we walked by, making a point to come and say hi and meet Miss Ethel.  Things are different in the south and maybe it is just the difference between new and old money, or just that hospitality that gets ingrained in one from growing up southern, but is charming and captivating - and I love these people!

Antebellum Home in Beaufort

Hilton Head itself caters to tourists and other than picnics and strolls along the beach we really didn't spend too much time here. Unless of course it was to eat, they have some amazing restaurants’ on the island. The beaches are pristine and made a great place to throw down a blanket, eat some lunch and then take a little walk with our feet in the ocean while our food digested.

Hilton Head Light House

The Low Country captivated us, even that pungent smell of the salt water as the tide recedes from the marsh soil won me over. The ever changing landscape of the marshes as the tides would come in and out; the place is beautiful and absorbing it all was too much, we must go back soon! Plus there are just too many golf courses for one month, Tom has a bucket list to fulfill. 

Images from Magnolia Plantation:

Hedge Maze

Images from Beaufort:

Old Sheldon Ruins

Old Sheldon Ruins

Ivy covered steps

Antebellum home, fall foliage and Spanish moss

Tree stuffed with bricks at Old Sheldon Ruins

View of the Intracoastal from Beaufort 

Home Sweet Hilton Head

Once upon a time we rode into Moss Creek Plantation and were immediately enchanted as we drove down a winding road, canopied with live oak trees that were dripping in Spanish moss; the place oozed southern charm and truly felt like we had stepped into the pages of a fairy-tale.  Our Hilton Head home was more than just a place to land for the holidays, it was like living inside a virtual painting. Walls of glass spanned the back of the home and looked out over the salt marshes, creating a sensational and an ever changing landscape for us to endlessly gaze upon; finding motivation to get out and leave was hard, I mean why would we want to, we had a stunning view right from our kitchen table.

The condo was smack in Moss Creek Plantation; home to two golf courses, a tennis center, an equestrian facility, pool/fitness center, miles of walking/biking trails and a reserve island. Needless to say the grounds were vast and the community completely catered to those living there, whether it be their primary home or second home.

Speaking of second homes, the Salt Marsh Cottages in which we stayed were specifically designed in the seventies as a second homes for those migrating south for the winter. The designer, Jakie Lee, won national recognition with this design; creating an organic design that just seamlessly blended in with nature and bringing that outdoor connection inside. The architecture was superb and we truly felt like we were part of the environment from the comfort of our couch.

View from our wall of windows

This place was an amazing holiday retreat for us and we opted to spend five weeks here, just so that we weren't perpetually on the road and could just hunker down and enjoy the holidays and each other for a bit of time. Being here for Thanksgiving and Christmas, I couldn't resist the opportunity to set up a Christmas tree this year, especially after last year and having our home packed up and in the utter state of chaos that surrounds a move, it really seemed like a must this year. A little something to anchor us and give us a sense of “home for the holidays”feeling.

View from upstairs loft

Giving into the holidays was really easy and I couldn't wait to get back to all those traditions we have had year after year, especially after skipping out on them last year. From the tree, to cooking Thanksgiving dinner, and although it was just the three of us, it was perfect. And for me, once a puzzle comes out, the holidays are near; I grew up in a home that during the winter break we would spend endless hours together constructing puzzles. I know it probably came about as a means of my parents keeping our minds occupied and off the television, and possibly out of the hair while they dealt with the pandemonium of the holidays, but to this day, seeing a puzzle on a table screams Christmas to me just as much as the trimming the tree does.

A holiday tradition 

While in Hilton Head, we had an opportunity to meet with some of the neighbors and I feel like they just adopted us and took us in as part of their families. On Thanksgiving Day, one set of our neighbors, Sue and Tom, invited us over for pre-dinner cocktails, insisting we come over and meet their family. They were the true beacon of southern hospitality and made us feel so welcome on a day that we were missing those so dear to us. It meant so much to us to pop over for a bit and just feel that family-like setting and the two of them and their kindness really added all that much more of an appeal to our stop in South Carolina. Meeting them, their kids and grand-kids is such a cherished memory.

Bridge leading out to island reserve

Ethel even loved it here. I honestly couldn't even tell you what her favorite was, it could have been so many things:  warming in her bed in front of the fireplace, getting out for fun quiet walks of chasing squirrels and birds on the reserve island,  or her daily treats from the security guards. In fact she became obsessed with the security guard check in as we would return from excursions or errands and the security person would be there with a little treat for Ethel upon our return, they knew her just as much as she knew them and trying to contain her from hopping out of the car window and into their arms some days was near impossible.

Christmas Spirit

Not only did our Hilton Head home and community win us it over, but its location was beyond ideal. Everything was nearby: the beach was a quick thirty minute drive, the heart of Savannah was forty minutes away and Charleston was within a two hour drive. This is definitely a place I would love to spend more time in and even possibly settle, we absolutely loved it here. So if you y’all get a hankering for the south, here it is our holiday retreat in Moss Creek Plantation, you should definitely go and visit, the place is magical!  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3746708

Gulfing Around

The Gulf Coast gave us some time to unwind which was a delightful change of pace after the past few months; it really was our first down period since Toronto. A large aspect being in part to the area not being as pet friendly, lots of smokers, and the difficulty of getting around; driving just didn't seem worth the effort some days. The experiences we had were fun, but this place failed to make a big impact on us as a place we’d want to settle for the long term. For us, a lot of it was lack of refinement, for a better word; honestly speaking, the place was a little too "Magic Mike" for our liking, driving past "Jugs and Mugs" type places every mile or so just wasn't our thing. 

So what does one do when they land in a place that makes it a little harder to get around and adventure with a pet, well my research and hunting for merriment just goes into overdrive! I am determined to make great family memories come hell or high water, even if Ethel forgets within five minutes of the experience, Tom and I remember.

The Intracoastal has some great little places for those traveling by boat to stop and dine; besides St. John’s Pass there is even a McDonald's with a boat dock so you can stop for an ice-cream break. The idea of not seeing this seaside view seemed like we’d be missing out on a big experience on the Gulf side, so it was put high on the priority list as a crusade that needed to happen while we were there. With a little tenacity I found Island Marine Rentals, and they were just as thrilled about letting Ethel join us on the boat as we were, so we splurged and rented a boat for the day.

Captain Tom looking cute as ever

Captain Tom slowly navigated our boat up the Intracoastal while we scoped out the mansions of the stars, the random beach islands and the shops lining the waterway. Once we hit the Gulf of Mexico, Tom opened up the engine and we skipped across the waves, feeling the ocean mist as it kissed our cheeks and taking in the beach from a water perspective. It has been ages since the three of us have been on a small boat, so I had forgotten how much you feel of the bounce as the boat jumps the waves and the wind burn as you zip along at high speeds; the nostalgia hit me like a wall of bricks and I remember all the joy I have spent boating Lake Powell and now I want a boat again!

Ethel and I channeling our inner Grace Kelly

One of our favorite cities that we spent the day in was Tarpon Springs, watching as the sponge boats brought their haul in for the day and strung versions of SpongeBob himself out to dry. I tend to forget that a sponges come from the sea, I am used to the store bought loofahs. Learning the aspect of how they are harvested, then strung to dry was quite an experience for me. It really made me appreciate the moments in the bath and using nature as a cleansing device, quite refreshing and now more appreciative of all of Mother Nature’s gifts. Plus not to forget the huge influx of Greek immigrants that have settled in Tarpon Springs and influenced part of their economy. They are the ones out diving for sponges, creating bakeries and eateries to accommodate residents and a major driving force for this tourist destination.

SpongeBob out to dry

Then there was the beach for sunny and clear days. Some spent basking in glorious rays of sunshine, creating shell art or taking in the inspiration and creation of others via the sand.  Many days I took advantage of getting out to take photographs, taking some time to play with lighting and of course any excuse to be outside on the warm days to make up for the colder fall moments we experienced here; a brutal realization that winter does happen everywhere. Even in Florida! And although, the inclement weather is few and far between, it still makes you appreciate its warmer days.

Artist in the midst of carving sand

Just before we left we were able to witness “Sanding Ovations”, a sand sculpting contest, and we just amorously stared in awe at the hard work and persistence that goes into one of these works of art, it was mesmerizing. The participants spent three days creating sculptures out of sand, the patience and vision that go into them in unimaginable, not to mention if they have a collapse. Ugh, I can’t even imagine how they calmly recover, I would be the one kicking the sand and yelling awful obscenities, but they don’t, they calmly recoup and continue on! Watching something like this and seeing the end result has been one of the bucket list items and now I get to cross it off; next step I guess is learning to do it myself, in fact it might teach patience and that would be a good lesson.

Tools of the trade and recovery from a collapse in progress

Regardless of the mobility of getting around, we did manage to have scads of fun, but know now that the Gulf isn't the place for us. Next up Hilton Head for the holidays and until then I bring you photos from Indian Rocks Beach. 

Home Sweet Indian Rocks Beach

We left the Atlantic side of Florida with just a quick drive across the state to spend the end of October and the first third of November on the Gulf of Mexico at one of the barrier islands.  Although they were in the same state and both the epitome of beach life, Indian Rocks Beach failed to win me over the same way the Saint Augustine did; IRB was missing that carefree, easy going lifestyle that I had become accustomed too.

Getting to the barrier islands from Tampa is quite a journey and we learned quickly that whatever the mileage is, you needed to double the amount of time to miles to get anywhere due to the copious amounts of traffic on Pinellas Peninsula. I like to compare driving here as being as torturous as pulling teeth; I’m pretty sold on the idea that most people here got their license from a Cracker Jack Box. It was a huge wake up call after leaving St. Augustine, where everyone is all smiles and peace signs; no you go, no you first. Instead I was afraid if I blinked on the gulf side that someone would take the front bumper off the car trying to get in front of us; I had to revert back to New Yorker Bonnie in quite a hurry and well that bitch was well hidden in a cobweb of beach Zen.

On the island, in Indian Rocks, life was a little slower and the beach was just across the street which meant sunsets and pristine white sand were in my future and that helped curb the frustration of driving. Downfall, the beaches nearby were not pet friendly, so I would sneak over with Ethel in my arms to and stand at the tree line to watch the sun say goodnight. However restaurants and shops were all in walking distance, and the Gulf Boulevard Shuttle could be picked up just outside our door which made getting around simple and easy.

The only pet friendly beaches were at State Parks and at each end of the chain of the barrier islands; Fort de Soto and Honeymoon Beach. Each of these ended up being about a forty minute drive to get to, although beautiful, a bit of a drive for a dog who hits a max of beach time within thirty minutes, so visiting just didn't seem worth the time. Also, Gulf Boulevard didn't have sidewalks but an extension of the road for walking on and every time we went out onto the road for a walk, I was pretty sure somebody was just going to look down for a second and steer right into us. Daily walks with the critter became walks in our condo complex down to the fishing pier instead of getting to peruse the community, alleviating any unnecessary panic about the dog getting too close to the road.

Once we left Philadelphia, we thought we were done with walk up buildings, but we were surprised by being on the third floor of a walk up in Indian Rocks. Which we may have only complained about a little while we were moving in and out, but I must say the view of the Intracoastal totally made up for the labor. Plus the condo felt huge and spacious and reminded me a lot of our old home, they were built about the same time and some of the finishes were pretty similar. Bonus it was furnished with a king size bed, something we didn't realize how much we missed, and the community had a swimming pool which made for a quick escape for a little sun time without having to commit to the beach. Overall this place gave us a great little oasis for a month even though I still felt myself pining for St. Augustine.  

So here it is, our Intracoastal View House in Indian Rocks Beach: